
The best tips for planting and growing strawberry plants when home gardening.
Learn how to plant, and care for strawberry plants an your backyard garden.
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Perennials do not live forever but some can be very long-lived if cared for properly.
In vegetable gardening, asparagus may be productive for thirty years while strawberries are effectively perennial, but in practical terms may need replacing every third or fourth year to ensure a bountiful harvest.
A well-maintained strawberry bed keeps producing for seven years or more. The work you put in at planting pays off every season. This page is part of our Growing Fruit and Berries hub, where you will find guides to raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, gooseberries, and all the best fruits for the home garden.
Growing Fruit and Berries — complete hub for growing strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, and gooseberries at home
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Mulching strawberry plants offers several benefits; water retention, weed control, and adding nutrients to the soil.The plants love pine needle mulches.
Mulching with pine needles discourages slugs and improves the flavor of the fruit while inhibiting weeds.
The first wild strawberry plants I ever picked were growing under the pine trees on the edge of our school yard. They had little bitty strawberries, but they were delicious!
It's ideal to have an area entirely devoted to growing strawberry plants.
However if you are limited for space, strawberries can be companion planted with some of the vegetables in your garden.
When companion planting, any bean, especially French beans, spinach, lettuce, and borage grow well with strawberries.
Brassicas, such as cabbage, cauliflower, and broccoli, do poorly planted near the strawberry patch.
The strawberry plants grow well at the base of peach trees but not directly under them.
The alpine variety is a good companion plant anywhere.
Delicious ripe strawberries from the garden.The type of strawberry you plant decides when you pick and how much room the plants need. There are three main types, plus the little alpine strawberries.
June-bearing: one big crop over two to three weeks in late spring or early summer. These give the largest berries and send out plenty of runners, so the patch fills in on its own. Plant early, mid-season, and late kinds to stretch the harvest. Two dependable choices are Sparkle, a late-midseason berry with fine flavor for jam and freezing, and Surecrop, a vigorous, reliable producer.
Everbearing: a crop in early summer and another in late summer or fall, with a few berries in between. They make fewer runners, so they suit small beds and containers. Ozark Beauty is an old favorite with big, sweet berries, and Quinault, bred in the Pacific Northwest, bears large, soft, very sweet berries.
Day-neutral: flowers and fruit from early summer until frost, as long as the weather isn't too hot. They make few runners, so they are ideal for small spaces, hanging baskets, and strawberry jars. Albion and Seascape are popular choices.
Alpine strawberries: small, wild-type plants such as Alexandria that make no runners and stay in neat clumps about a foot tall. The berries are small but very fragrant, and the plants bear all summer. Alpines are the one kind that is easy to grow from seed. Start them indoors in late winter, 10 to 12 weeks before your last frost.
Short on space? Build a strawberry pyramid: three stacked rings of metal edging, each about six inches deep. A pyramid about six feet across at the base holds around 50 plants.
Lavish some extra effort on preparing your new strawberry patch and you will be richly rewarded with years of bountiful harvests.
Avid growers recommend spreading out your harvest by planting an early-season berry such as ‘Earliglow', a mid-season strawberry like ‘Jewel', and a late-season berry such as ‘Blomidon'.
Enjoy the delicious results of your strawberry patch all winter long!Pick off all the flowers from your newly planted strawberry plants.
You will not get any fruit the first season but this helps the plants become established.
They will produce far more fruit the following years than they would if you did not pick off the blooms at the start.
Once the season's strawberry harvest has ended, it is time to give next year's crop a boost.
Freshly picked berries.The University of Minnesota Extension has a thorough research-based strawberry growing guide at extension.umn.edu. It covers soil preparation, planting systems, renovation after harvest, and managing common strawberry pests and diseases.
University of Minnesota Extension — Growing Strawberries in the Home Garden — research-based guide to strawberry planting systems, soil preparation, renovation, and pest management